Thursday, June 12, 2008

How to Sew Your Own Bowties

UPDATES (11/19/08): Note that I realized I wrote down the wrong seam allowance (although it doesn't matter much what you use) and it's now corrected in the text. Also, see the comments section for a printable pattern you can download!

I've been wearing bowties for years now and the majority of my collection are homemade ties. I started making my own bowties for multiple reasons:

  • Bowties are hard to find in stores
  • Bowties in stores are expensive
  • I don't have enough hobbies (yeah, right...)
Here is my brief tutorial on how to sew your own.

Pattern
Sure, you can probably buy a pattern somewhere probably. But if you've got one bow-tie handy, you can just make a pattern. You'll just have to do this for your first project anyway. Set your presumably adjustable bowtie to the length designed for your neck size and trace one half of the length of the bowtie onto a piece of paper. At the middle of the tie, cut the paper at a 45 degree angle (not perpendicular to the bowtie) since you're going to want to cut your material on the bias. Then add whatever seam allowance you want as a border; I use a 1/8" 1/4" seam allowance.


Material Bowties should ideally be made of silk, but you can make them out of whatever material strikes your fancy. I've made some ties that I like quite nicely out of cotton as well. Truly anything works. The key to a tie that will tie up well is good stiff interfacing. The worst bowtie I have is a storebought one that has terribly thin interfacing (or maybe none at all?) and it won't hold a good shape at all. I usually buy half a yard of material, which gives me plenty of room to cut on the bias and I have lots of leftover if I want to make more ties or a pocket square to go along with the tie.

If you have no idea about sewing (like I did when I started this a few years ago), when you cut out the material, the material should be folded in half (so you'll get two things for every one you cut out). When you cut on the bias, that means to lay your pattern on the material at a 45 degree angle from the grain of the material.

Cut out 2 (you get four pieces) of your material from the pattern and 1 (you get two pieces) of your pattern from the interfacing.

Cut your material:
Cut your interfacing:

Ready your sewing machine You'll need a sweet sewing machine like mine. This was my grandmother's machine and it is fabulous. It doesn't really matter what color thread you use because your seams will be hidden if you follow my directions below. I like to be in the ballpark in case some of the thread peaks out.


Connect the Pieces
You'll now have 6 pieces, each of which are half of the bowtie. You'll want to sew them into 3 pieces, each of which is the shape of a bowtie. Two will be your material and one will be your interfacing. To do this, pin your pieces together as shown below and sew a seam 1/8" 1/4" in.

When you unfold the pieces, they should look like this, with the "right" sides facing the same direction and the seam on the "wrong sides".
Next, flatten out the seam by ironing it down. You can trim off the corners that stick out of the edges at this point as well.

Sew in the Interfacing Pin the "wrong" side of one of your pieces of material together with the interfacing. Sew the material and the interfacing together. I like to stay further to the outside than my seam allowance because it prevents this seam from showing when I do the final seam that will be the actual border when the tie gets inverted.


Sew on the Final Piece of Material Pin the "right sides" of the tie material together and sew the whole thing together. You'll have the "wrong" side out on one side and the interfacing on the other side, with your other piece of material sandwiched in between. Halfway through the neck portion, leave a gap of a few inches because you'll need to invert your tie through that space. Here, you'll want to make sure your entire seam is inside the previous seam that you sewed or you'll end up with that seam showing on your finished tie.


Trim Trim away excess material, particularly around the corners. This will prevent you from having lumps in your tie when you invert it.

Invert Pull your tie inside-out through the gap where you didn't sew on the neck so that the interfacing goes inside and the right sides of your tie are now out. This part can be tediously difficult because you have to pull the "bow" parts out through that narrow little neck opening and it can be hard to do. Have patience, though, because you're almost done! I use a chopstick to help me push the tie through.

Hand-stitch the opening Now you need to sew up the opening that you just pulled everything through. It's okay if you're terrible at this part (I am!) because this is going to hide inside the collar of your shirt anyway. This is the last step. You'll just need to iron it to flatten the whole thing out.

Tie! The last step is to tie your tie. Hopefully if you're up to sewing a bowtie, you already know how to tie one. I'm sure you can find a video tutorial somewhere (perhaps I can make my own?). I found that it's easier to practice on your leg than on your neck while you're first learning. I also like to throw in a pocket square. You don't actually have to sew this; just fold up a scrap of your material!

30 comments:

Anonymous said...

This post proves how cool you are. I have always known it.

Anonymous said...

http://www.kingsmeadow.com/2007/11/how-to-tie-bow-tie.html Enjoy!

Kristen said...

I agree with the first comment. You are so cool! I haven't spoken with you in forever. I hope all is well...

Rebecca said...

greg...you will never cease to amaze me...and to think i knew you when ________ (fill in the blank for relevant childhood escapade!)

cheers,

bucket

Stephanie said...

Hey Greg,

I was searching for how to sew a bow tie and I came across your article. My assistant manager at "menswear store chain" says it's impossible to make your own because of neck size. I just want to know if you know how to adjust it to your neck size if you already have the pattern. Thanks!

Steph

Greg said...

Stephanie,

Absolutely. It's quite easy to make a bow tie of any length to fit any neck. For instance, I have a 15.5" neck. I made my pattern by setting a store-bought adjustable tie to 15.5" and making my pattern half the length of the tie (plus seam allowance). From this same pattern, I made a tie for a friend who had a 16.5" neck. When I traced the pattern to cut the material, I simply added half an inch to the "straight part" of each piece that I cut out. If you wanted to make one for a 15" neck, you would simply trim 1/4" off the end of each piece.

You can also make adjustable bowties that will fit any arbitrary neck size, but it's less trivial. You have to shorten one end of the tie and make the other end much longer (so that the sum of the two pieces makes the maximum size neck you want to fit it to). On the end of the short piece, you have to sew in a flattened loop the width of the tie and you have to put a notch in the inside of the tie every half inch. The long piece gets threaded through that loop and you put a hook of sorts on the end that you hook into the notch on the other side depending on the neck size you want it to currently fit.

I hope that explanation is straight-forward enough. If it doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll post a more complete explanation along with pictures.

It's definitely possible to make your own ties and you can make them however you want. For example, a friend of mine needed a tie for his Mad-Hatter costume for Halloween. I modified my pattern to make the bow part of the tie really huge and he ended up with a really fun looking goofy bowtie.

Making your own bowties is a lot of fun, super cheap ($1-$2 per tie, compared to $45 at the store), fast (I can do them in about an hour now...and I don't even know that much about sewing), and high quality (some of mine are much nicer than some of my store-bought ties).

Good luck!

Greg said...

I got an email with several questions about the way I do things. In case it helps anybody else, here are my responses:

1) What weight interfacing should I use? Featherweight, lightweight, medium weight, or heavy weight? I don't know the exact weight of the interfacing I've been using is, but it's definitely on the heavier end of the spectrum. The ties simply hold their shape much better when they are stiffer. I suppose if they were way too stiff, you might not be able to tie a sharp knot in it. I've never had this problem. The interfacing I have right now is stiffer than the duck fabric I recently used to make cornhole bags.

2) Does it matter if I use the sew-on kind of interfacing or the iron-on kind of interfacing? I don't think it matters. I've always just sewed in some good thick material, but I don't see any reason you couldn't use iron-on interfacing. It would probably save some time, in fact, and would get held firmly in place by the seam that holds the outer material together.

3) When I fold the material in half, what side(s) of the material will face inside the fold: the "wrong side" or the "right side?" When you sew your material together before inverting, it should look like this:

material wrong side
material right side
-----------------------------this is where the inversion will take place
material right side
material wrong side
interfacing

When you flip it inside-out. It will look like this:

material right side
material wrong side
interfacing
material wrong side
material right side

4) When cutting the folded material using the pattern, how do I prevent the folded material from sliding around so that the material that is cut has the same stripes or pattern for each piece? In other words, after cutting the folded material, if the material slips/moves as I cut it, how can I have two pieces that are symmetrical with respect to each other? When I look at store-bought bowties, the bow parts of the tie are pretty symmetrical. Quite frankly, this is something I've never thought about and I have no idea. Now I'm wondering how symmetric my ties are (I'm in my lab right now and don't have a tie with me), but I've never noticed it as a problem. Funny that it's never crossed my mind since in my branch of chemistry we worry a lot about molecular symmetry.

5) What is the purpose of having a 1/8 seam allowance (that is, the white pattern is larger than the actual bowtie from which it was created)? Is there any danger in simply cutting out a white pattern that is the same size as the tie from which it was traced/created? A seam allowance is of critical importance (as is true anytime you are going to invert what you're sewing). Suppose you trace a bowtie of the size you want onto the material and cut it out at that size. You cannot sew your seams directly at the very edges, you have to move into the material a little bit in order to sew the seams. By moving in, you've now made your bowtie narrower by the amount that you moved in. The amount you move in from the edges of the material is called the seam allowance. Everything inside the seam while you are sewing ends up on the outside of the tie and everything outside the seam ends up inside the tie as excess material when you invert it. By adding the seam allowance onto the pattern, when you move in 1/8" from the outside, you're actually now making the tie the size you want it. 1/8" is somewhat arbitrary and you can choose whatever seam allowance you want. There are two guidelines to keep in mind, though. First, if the seam allowance is too small and you sew too close to the edges, your seams may come apart. If the seam allowance is too large, you'll end up stuffing lots of excess material inside the tie. You can always trim off excess after sewing if there's too much material inside the tie. I always trim off excess around the corners so that I don't get bulky corners after the inversion, just be sure you don't trim so close that your seams can fray apart. The fabulous thing about the seam allowance is that it gobbles up everything at the edges of the material, so I don't have to be really careful when I cut the material; jagged edges are no problem because they end up inside the tie!

6) If I understand your process correctly, there are two seams: 1 outer seam for the interfacing attaching to the "wrong side" of the tie and 1 inner seam for attaching the two "right sides" of the tie together. If my understanding is correct, can you tell me how to I sew the inner seam so that when I invert the tie, the tie is symmetrical considering either end alone or both ends together. Is there a line (imaginary or real) that I can follow when using the sewing machine to create this inner seam or is it just by eye-balling? Technically, you should be sewing the second seam directly on top of the first seam. The problem with doing it this way is that if you stray just barely to the outside of the seam that's already there, you'll end up with thread showing at the seam wherever that happens. To be safe, I sew right next to the already existing seam on the inside edge of it. This ensures that when I invert the tie, no thread from the seams shows. If you use iron-on interfacing, you'll avoid this problem entirely and you'll just need to use the 1/8" guide on your sewing machine. Most modern machines have little markings for seam allowances just inside the needle. My antique Singer does not, so you can see in the picture of my machine a piece of blue tape with a white line on it. The inside edge of that tape is my 1/8" mark and the white line is my 1/4" mark for other projects. (If you didn't figure it out, you can zoom in on any of the images in my post by clicking on them.)

Anonymous said...

this was right on the money. thanks for the tutorial, man.

Anonymous said...

hmmm, that sounds not too complicated,
I wanna make a yellow bowtie to fulfill my best mate's long time dream, but...i don't have any to use as a base, could you tell me the measurments so I can make a sewing pattern?
thanks loads
Myriam

Greg said...

Myriam - absolutely. When I get a chance I'll post the dimensions of the pattern here. And if I think of it and get a chance, I can make a printable pattern that you could download, print, and cutout. It may take me a day or two to get you the info. I've made myself a yellow bowtie and love it. I'm sure your mate will too and hopefully you'll find the project fun as well.

Anonymous said...

wow, thank you so much!!!
what a fast response!
I was distressed because something so simple was getting so complicated
I'm so excited now, to be able to do this for my friend, he talks about it since such a long time.
you're a saver
Myriam

Greg said...

Myriam, et al.,

Here's a downloadable PDF file of a pattern that you can print and cut out for making your own bow ties.

Pattern

Published under a Creative Commons License

Anonymous said...

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA great!!!!!!
thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Greg said...

My link for the downloadable pattern went down. (Thanks for pointing that out, Kayli.) Here's a new link:

Downloadable Pattern

Published under a Creative Commons License

Anonymous said...

Hello there... I just wanted to say that you are very talented! Not to mention a cutie! :)

Megan Okimoto said...

Thanks for the pattern! I will have to adjust it significantly--for my two year-old, but it's so good to have *something* to start with. Whew! I'm glad there are chemists with time on their hands and inclination. Sewing is sort of like taking medicine for me...worth it, but boy would I rather not.

suemac said...

HI Greg,
I have to make a yellow bowtie for prom: so we cut 2 patterns and 1 of the interfacing. Sew the interfacing on one wrong side material, the sew two pieces together with good print facing each other. Leave neck open for pulling through. Ok how do i measure the neck size, do I add anything for allownace. Can you use an adjusting kit in back, the slide. I appreciate any help. I tried downloading the pattern but it didn't come through.

Sue

Greg said...

Hi Sue,

Glad you're taking on the project! I really like the yellow bowtie I made myself years ago. I just went back to the download page to check and it took me four tries to figure out how to download it. I've now added some additional instructions there that should make it more straightforward. If you still have trouble, give me your email address and I'll email you the pattern.

As for measuring the neck size: Supposedly this is done by wrapping a tape measure around the neck and sticking a finger in between. I did this last night measuring for a tux rental for my brother's wedding and discovered that it comes up too narrow! I measured 14.25" where I'm definitely a 15.5" neck size. Does the person have a dress-shirt that fits properly in the neck (comfortably snug?). If so, read the neck size out of the collar. Add or subtract from my pattern as necessary for larger or smaller necks.

If you want to make it adjustable (something I've never done, but is very doable), here's how you'll have to modify my pattern:

The bow-tie will now have to be two separate pieces. In my instructions you start with four pieces of material (+interfacing) and you sew them together to make one long tie. Instead, you'll make two short ends. You'll need to make them square at the end instead of diagonal (which is used for the purpose of sewing the pieces together). You'll need to make one of them a little longer and you'll put a hook of sorts (most use a t-shaped hook...perhaps I can take a picture later) and along the length of it, you'll need to cut and reinforce slots that it will loop into. The other piece will have a rectangular bracket that the first piece will loop through, come back around and hook into the appropriate slot. If you need, I can take pictures of what this looks like.

Good luck!

Anonymous said...

Must be fate. I was looking for a pattern to make a bow tie for my 8 year old son, Gregory, for a school play next week, called Going Buggy. Picked up some nice fabric with some snazzy six legged friends. Other connection is that my brother, Gregory's uncle, earned his PhD in Chemistry at Univ of IL at Champaign-Urbana. Small world. Wish me luck with the sewing and good luck to you with the chemicals!

Greg said...

Anon, what serendipity! Good luck with the sewing!

Barry said...

I have made 4 ties now with your pattern. GREAT!!! I have used iron on interfacing, and it works fine. Since I have been knitting for nearly 25 years, I have found a trick for turning the tie right side out. I use a needle with a plastic wedge opposite the point (Susan Bates brand, I think) and start at the butterfly end to get the outside out. Then I go back and use the point to make sure the corners and wings are all as they should be before ironing flat. Keep up the fine job! Barry

Greg said...

Barry,

I'm glad to hear you've had so much success! This post gets a lot of traffic, but this is the first report from the field I've heard on someone actually making a tie from my instructions. Thanks for the report!

I like the knitting needle suggestion. I often use a chopstick to achieve the same thing :).

Anonymous said...

Greg, thank you!!!

Anonymous said...

I made a polka dot bowtie out of quilting cotton and heavyweight fusible interfacing; I needed to use a larger seam allowance as the seams pulled apart under the stress of turning it right side out. I used a knitting needle and tweezers to help turn it. It looks great!

Greg said...

I'm glad to hear your bowtie was a success! After years of doing this, I discovered just the other day a better way of doing the inversion. I've always started at the opening in the middle of the tie and pulled stuff up through. It's much easier to start at the bow end and push it up into itself. Then using a chopstick or something similar push it up out through the center. It pops out easily and is all over within a few seconds (I used to spend a good 5-10 minutes working it out through).

Anonymous said...

That's how I turn things; start at the end and push it toward the middle. I think it was the cotton and interfacing that was so 'grippy' that caused me some trouble. But my friend loved it!

Toby said...

Having searched for several hours for a self-tie pattern this blog is a godsend! Now I have to give this to my Indian tailor to make 30(yes 30) in bright yellow for a fancy dress party in Southern India. Lets see how he does!! (PS self-tie bow ties are unknown here so putting them on will be fun..).

Greg said...

Toby, that's the largest-scale production of ties from this tutorial I've heard about. Good luck and have fun!

Emily said...

Greg- Thanks for your bow-tie posting. Your's is the first I have found that is not a pre-tie. I'm making a couple of bow-ties for my brother for Christmas to help him diversify his "Bow-tie Friday."

Greg said...

Emily, glad to hear you've found what you're looking for. I hope the ties turn out well and I like the idea of Bow-Tie Friday!